Jade River
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  • 3-diamonds-black-pearl-20223-diamonds-black-pearl-2022
  • the-best-restaurant-awards-2021the-best-restaurant-awards-2021
  • 1-stars-michelin1-stars-michelin
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Jade River

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Michelin reviewers evaluated: "Restaurant design with Chinese antiquity, imitation courtyard design and casual separates box seat, dark carved wood decoration, together with the whole wooden furniture, hanging bird cage on more Chinese tile roof, very elegant; and interior color stained glass window is a long history and has been discontinued handmade glass, even more old-fashioned restaurant must-try dishes are fresh every morning to the Fu sunflower garden sunflower white cut chicken, and two chefs Fu jointly developed lemongrass stir pigeon, white brine can not be missed. "

The White Swan Hotel, which opened in 1983, is the first five-star hotel in China. It is invested by Huo Yingdong and is also a member of LHW. Over the past 30 years, we have received more than 40 heads of state. We can see how excellent the dishes are. Cai Lan has also publicly said that white swan is its favorite Cantonese style tea restaurant. If you want to taste the classic Cantonese flavor and experience "eating in Guangzhou", Yutang spring warm is the choice that can"t be missed by gourmands - using carefully selected fresh ingredients, traditional classic but innovative Cantonese cuisine production techniques, and excellent snacks. On July 16, 2019 Michelin Guide was officially released in Guangzhou. In this year"s new list, Guangzhou"s first two-star Michelin restaurant appeared, and three new one-star restaurants were added, bringing the total number of star rated restaurants in the city to 11. However, there is still no three-star restaurant. "Eating in Guangzhou", where the food culture is so profound, there is no three-star restaurant for two years. Does this mean that Michelin, which is dominated by western evaluation criteria, does not understand Guangzhou? In this regard, fenghuang.com interviewed Dong Zhenxiang, chairman and general manager of Beijing Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant Co., Ltd., a famous chef, food critic and gourmet writer, and discussed his views. Delicacy: Michelin doesn"t understand the long history of Chinese food. What"s the ifeng.com? The majority of Chinese restaurants in the world are Chinese restaurants. Since the international influence of Cantonese cuisine is not low, why can"t Guangzhou choose a Samsung restaurant? Mr. Dong: as early as the release of the Michelin list in Shanghai, I had a very strong opinion. I once said that the judges of Michelin did not know Chinese food very well in general. They did not understand the long history of Chinese food. Over the past two years, I have increasingly felt that Chinese food and Western food are two different things and should not be judged in one system. Of course, many people may argue against Japan. They also use the standard of Western food. How can they rate many Michelin star restaurants? Japan is a city with a higher degree of internationalization. I mean that the judges have a deeper understanding of Japan than China. Some people may say that they don"t like to hear the excuse that "because people don"t know Chinese food, they don"t go to the list of Chinese food". But this is not a shield. It"s a fact. Mr. Dong: Yutang is still a one star restaurant this time? No reason! Fenghuang.com food: netizens have high expectations for yutangchunnuan to win two stars. However, the results of the list release are beyond everyone"s expectation. How do you look at this phenomenon? Mr. Dong: in my mind, there have been several restaurants that are benchmark, which can be used as a reference standard. I have a rough look at this year"s list, the first reaction is: White Swan Hotel Yutang spring warm this time is still a star restaurant? No reason! If Yutang chunnuan doesn"t take three stars or two stars, it doesn"t seem to me that Michelin is in an objective evaluation. I want to confirm that they really understand Yutang spring warm? I guess not enough. The reason why I have such a strong reaction is that I know it too well. I never hide my love for Yutang spring warmth. Over the years, every time I go to Guangzhou, the warm spring of white swan is the place I go most. As an authoritative old Cantonese restaurant, its taste is of the top level. Compared with Michelin two star restaurants all over the world, it does not lose. What does a restaurant rely on for 30 years of consistency? It"s up to the chef. If the quality of the chef left in disorder, it will not be able to maintain a restaurant"s cooking standards, but Yutang spring so many years, has been the masters of those masters, very rare. In addition to chef Li, there is a master Huang who specializes in Brines and has been working for decades. There is also a master who has just retired. Everyone knows that his Sakima is superb. Yutang"s spring tea is also very good. Up to now, people from Wuyang and Wuyang are queuing up for morning tea. It is said that "eating in Guangzhou". Whether it is a big taste, a small taste, a taste of morning tea or a late night canteen, people can"t finish it. If it doesn"t have Samsung, other Michelin Cantonese restaurants around the world are not worth talking about. They certainly don"t do well. This is the traditional local flavor, which combines the local style, the old technology and the innovative technology. What I personally think is that there is no blemish in the jade hall. So I want to ask, does Michelin judge know what famous dishes yutangchunnuan has? This is a matter of great regret. I need not conceal it. If you come to ask me, I will tell you the truth and I will not give up. Mr. Dong: in my heart, "Jiang" is not as good as yutangchun"s warm fenghuang.com food: "Jiang" restaurant has become the first Michelin two-star restaurant in Guangzhou this year. Do you think it is worthy of its name? Why? Da Dong: that"s for sure, but in my heart, it"s not as warm as Yutang in spring. Just now, I have talked about the tradition. I have a sense of innovation. The whole White Swan Hotel has experienced the redecorating part. After renovation, it has not lost its original taste, retaining many ancient essence, especially the team. Those masters were the mainstay of this age, and their skills were not only excellent, but exquisite. By contrast, "Jiang" is certainly not as warm as Yutang in spring. In addition, I mentioned that the unique product of sunflower chicken in Guangzhou is the unique one. Da Dong: spies of Michelin must know the famous dish of other people"s Restaurant: does that mean Michelin doesn"t understand Guangzhou? Da Dong: it"s not so much that they don"t understand Guangzhou. It"s better to say that the judges of Michelin haven"t gone to the corner where they really have a good taste, or they may have gone there, but they haven"t tasted other people"s famous dishes. Therefore, I think sometimes the selection may not be fair. The reason for the unfairness may be that the tentacles of appreciation have not been extended. I think Michelin should follow a concept, that is, we must know what other people"s famous dishes are? Michelin 3-star restaurant, known as "a place worth eating once in a lifetime", must not be understood as just playing cards and eating specialty dishes and specialty dishes. All the restaurants in the world can"t make every dish well. It can only be said that in this restaurant, there must be one or two dishes that I put all my heart and soul into the dishes, so the guests can rest assured when they come here. No good chef can cook all the dishes well. As a professional evaluation organization or diner, you may not know where the skills of this dish are, but you must know the specialty of the restaurant. Why do you say that? Because we"ve been through it before. Some judges evaluate a restaurant and like to poke people"s weakness. For example, we ordered fried vermicelli on the menu, but this dish is not brilliant in this restaurant. The reason why we put it on the menu is that the restaurant has to consider the operation itself and take care of most of the market audience. After all, art catering and market operation are interdependent. So I want to ask, does Michelin judge know what famous dishes yutangchunnuan has? Fenghuang.com food: in your opinion, which one is more suitable for Chinese catering market? Mr. Dong: they have their own characteristics. Michelin is a more comprehensive and mature system, but it will also be limited by the spy"s personal cognition of food. So I hope it can have a more in-depth study of Chinese food, especially for restaurants. The Black Pearl list is based on big data, but big data may not be fair and objective. Sometimes big data reflects the evaluation of restaurants by the post-90s and post-00s. However, some real mainstream customers of some restaurants still stay on business guests, or some customers with real consumption power. They may not be able to use the ordering app. Therefore, in addition to the support of big data, there are also some gourmets" cognition of the famous dishes of these restaurants as supplements. I think it is OK to combine these two aspects. Mr. Dong: Michelin has guided delicacy consumption to some extent: what is the reference value of Michelin list for Chinese catering? Mr. Dong: Michelin, to a certain extent, has led to refined consumption, especially in wine tasting. So far, Chinese food has not a very complete wine and meal matching system. In the past, color, flavor and shape ware were the standard of food evaluation in China. We rarely used to have the concept of food ingredient identification, discussing the various reactions that can occur in food cooking After studying, we learned that coking reaction and Maillard reaction began to pay attention to the presentation and artistry of food, which had never existed in China before. Moreover, we did not pay special attention to the dining environment and hygienic standards before. Therefore, Michelin leads the Chinese people"s understanding of food in these aspects, subverts our evaluation criteria, and promotes the development of Chinese food. Fenghuang.com food: do you think the Guangzhou catering market will make changes according to the Michelin guidelines? Mr. Dong: that"s for sure. The restaurant"s own signature dishes should have outstanding and constant ability, but the restaurant must also have the ability of marketing. Now marketing relies on information, which can adapt to consumer demand and change, and seize all kinds of media for advertising. Let"s take Michelin as an advertising medium and make some adjustments according to Michelin"s requirements. Moreover, Michelin is indeed advanced in some evaluation criteria, which will certainly promote Chinese food. From this point of view, I think we should actively participate in it. Although many restaurants say: I don"t take it seriously, I am still very good, but my point of view is: take it as a medium, like today"s online restaurant, we should be sensitive to grasp all kinds of media for publicity and marketing. Fenghuang.com food: Michelin will land in Beijing in the future. Are you looking forward to your restaurant on the list? Mr. Dong: at any time, we should serve the people wholeheartedly and do ourselves well. I hope to be praised by our customers and recognized by the media. Cuisine: Guangdong cuisine per capita: lunch ¥ 200-300, dinner ¥ 300-400 address: 3rd floor, Swan Hotel, No.1, South Shamian street, Liwan District, Guangzhou Tel.:   86-20-8188-6968 yutangchun warm star


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