Dexing Noodle House was founded in 1878 (Qing dynasty four years), so far, 135 years of history, is truly a hundred years old. This is the ordinary people have to eat the face, smooth with toppings, hoof stew every day, and explosive burst eel fish, actually secure in the old signs hanging over dynasties, the branches all over Shanghai, Guangdong Road, the old numbers have never been moved, full day.

There are two Dexing Pavilions in Shanghai, and foreigners are easily confused. A Dexing restaurant opened in 1883. It is a wine and a la carte restaurant. Mei Lanfang, Du Yuesheng and other celebrities always visit his old shop in Shiliupu Wharf. The ginseng, herring bald lung, grass head circle, and bad bowl head are wonderful; while the other one is the Dexing noodle restaurant that opened in 1878 and specializes in noodles. This is the noodles that ordinary people can eat. It is smooth with toppings, every day. Braised hoofs, eel and fish, even hung the old signboards after three dynasties. The branches were all over Shencheng. The old Guangdong Road had never been moved and was full every day. No matter how old Shanghainese are, who has never eaten this bowl of authentic Yuanzu noodles?

"Sanxian noodles are busy all the time, and the door of the tavern is mad all day long". This Qing Dynasty bamboo branch word refers to the scene of Suzhou and Shanghai, where all the noodle shops and taverns are boiling. Before the noodle restaurants in Jiangsu and Zhejiang started from scratch, they were shoulder-bearing burdens, knocking bamboo noodles through the street in the wind and rain. Although the danzi is small and can be prepared with all kinds of internal organs, there is a pot stove in front, a multi-layer cabinet in the back, various flavorings and tableware in the first layer, ravioli and noodles in the middle drawer, and a soup pot at the bottom, containing the original soup and stew, The wash basin and water are hanging outside. The full-tasting stalls have been walking for a long time, and the reputation of the regular customers has become stronger and stronger. The shopkeeper has accumulated a few years and then put down a small door and passed it on from generation to generation. Want to come to Dexing Pavilion is no exception.

I do n’t know if it was the shop owner or the people in Shencheng who made up. There is also a legend of yellow robe. It is said that the emperor Qianlong subdued Jiangnan in small clothes and traveled all the way to the village farmhouse. He heard the smell of stewed meat in the hut. After tasting, he felt that the entrance was melting and the meat was glutinous, and he immediately decided to accept it as a banquet food. Braised hoofs, crispy eel, broth, hot sauce, marinated pickles, thick-smoked fish, and other famous toppings. After several generations of imperial chefs' improvement, they have gradually become a model, inherited from the Dexing Pavilion and passed down to this day. Regardless of whether it is a retail vendor or a royal palace restaurant, the Dexing Pavilion ’s business has indeed been highly respected since its opening. From the excellent selection of materials to the meticulous cooking, the most popular braised hoof noodles are called “Shanghai ’s first noodles” by the locals. The crispy and boneless stewed meat is cooked into the noodles, and the toppings and soup noodles are integrated into one. The salty taste is sweet and the sweetness is fresh. It is a century-old model of Suzhou noodles taking root in Shanghai.

Hurried to the Dexing noodle restaurant, if you see an empty seat, people have the urge to go to the temple to burn incense and thank you. The dragon team's tail looked forward, finally moved to the shopkeeper to order bowl noodles, and looked at a dense red sign on the wall. The diners only hated the father and mother for not giving them another stomach. The old shop sells tens of thousands of bowls of noodles every day, and it is overcrowded every day. The uncles and aunts put the new noodle shop at the door of the house today, and the Minger gift. They would rather squeeze a few stops of bus and have to come here and eat it. Bowl noodles, and then pack a few small dishes for the children who go home at night. They have to repeat the same topic that they said yesterday, the day before yesterday, and the day before yesterday: my daughter should n’t eat it; the Sanding buns in this family are at ease. After the meal was over, the crowd was a little back, and the little white-collar worker in the office building next to him dared to mobilize. He sipped the soup in his face and calmed down. After watching the boss's brows for a long time, he came to the shop to find some comforts that only his mother could give. The Chongyang Festival must be the red cake of this family, and the Qingming Festival also needs the youth group of the family. It seems that only in these days can it be prosperous.

Dexing Pavilion has nearly ten branches in Shanghai, but the century-old veteran of Guangdong Road has always been the master in everyone's mind. The signboard with the gold characters on the black background was hung upright on the antique cornice of the small building on the second floor of the street entrance, and the dragon next to the two take-out windows on the stone steps at the door could be seen from a distance. When you enter the shop, you will see the cash register. A wooden man in a plaid sweater sits behind a wooden cabinet table. A wall of mahogany signs is behind him. There are nearly four hundred rows in four rows. The diners' eyes were slightly inconvenient or hesitant, and the aunt's eyes lined up behind him immediately stunned his back, forced by this momentum, he quickly ordered a bowl of stewed noodles, paid, and seated. Then you can find that the noodles are to be taken to the window by ticket. The kitchen is only one step away. The master is holding a one-meter long hot pot and gestures to flip up and down. The folks echo each other. The atmosphere in the century-old shop is fiery. No matter who you are, this is the rule.

On the first floor of the noodle restaurant, there are slaps, 9 tables of eight immortals and 36 wooden chairs. The boss has a forward-thinking concept of not losing the Apple brand. The hungry sales method allows diners to report every day. There are not only three generations, nine stars, but also stars. Foodies with surnames, sitting in such old-school places, everyone is more crowded and happy. After public and private partnerships and turbulent years, the surname of the shopkeeper changed, but the materials and craftsmanship have remained unchanged for a hundred years. Becoming part of the culture of the magic capital is a secret that Shanghainese have kept secret.

Taste of Yangchun

The most important thing for people in Shanghai is the combination of light and rich Shanghai dishes followed by Dexing Noodle House. Lightness is a bowl of Yangchun noodles that is fresh and not too low, while richness is made of hundreds of toppings but not greasy. Before entering the store to eat noodles, you must first understand the rhetoric in the noodle shop, in order to order clearly and eat clearly. Suxi Noodle House, except for the cold noodles in summer, all the noodles are the same as Yangchun noodles, that is, the smooth side. Old shops such as Dexing Pavilion will have to make homemade noodles twice a day in the morning and at noon. For Guangdong Road, only 300 kilograms of flour a day. The silver silk surface extruded with two kinds of fine powder without adding a little impurities is thin, long and round, flexible and elastic. The old shop opens at 6 o'clock in the morning, and many smart old customers arrive at 5 o'clock, just to eat the earliest and most refreshing noodle soup.

The toppings are the foods added to the noodles. The common ones include braised hoof, braised meat, popped fish, popped eel, eel, eel paste, shrimps, three fresh and shiitake mushrooms. They are cooked in advance in a small dish one by one before 7 o'clock every day, and are shared with the diners when they come out. The exquisite seasonal ingredients such as crab noodles and shrimp loin also require customers to cross the bridge.

Because of different toppings, three or two groups can be combined to form different complexions. In winter and summer, there are also hot and cold mixes. Each type of noodle has a different title. The ordinary people must not understand it when they call it. The noodles of the red noodle soup of meat noodles, the toppings are different in fat and fat, and are divided into hard fat and large fine heads; the white noodles of fish noodles are called natural color, and are divided into head and tail, belly, and water according to the body of the fish; The three toppings are the three freshs; in the first winter, the chef Fu fears that the toppings are not hot, so he puts them on the bottom of the bowl and simmers the noodles. This is called the bottom topping. It is called hot mix; if you do n’t like green onions when you order the noodles in front of the counter, you can say that you do n’t like green, the shopkeeper will naturally be an old customer, and there is no neglect; More clever.

Such a meticulous name was quickly summoned by the soft words of Wu Nong from the buddy. The corresponding inside the hall was high and low, and it was difficult for outsiders to understand, but the atmosphere was warm. With the endless stream of diners, the face has not yet been imported. The interest in the city has long been on my mind.

Smart noodles

After the first bite of noodles was swallowed, I was relieved. The silver noodles are slightly boiled and not lumpy, with countable strips and distinct roots. A glance around, the eyes of everyone outside the cabinet are savvy. The savvy of selling is not speculation but real material. The savvy of buying is not greed to save money but cheap and good quality. Master Xu Maojun, who has been a noodle master for 48 years in Dexing Pavilion, is the third-generation heir. He has burnt his noodles for a lifetime, and his brain is turning fast at the age of 70. Although he is the head chef, the old man always feels like a shop owner. No matter what questions everyone asks, he is stubbornly trying to explain the cost of a bowl of noodles in Dexing Hall.

"Every bowl of topping for eel noodles is six dollars. Do n’t look at a few pieces of eel. It costs 25 yuan. We use real thick Shanghai eel eel. The raw materials are 35 yuan per pound. After a pound of fresh eel is half cooked, there are only six remaining Two halves, five or two halves left after deboning, scribing, and peeling. After frying into the oil pan for more than one or two or eight dollars, hang the old material to make the eel into two or two halves, only enough for 4 bowls of eel topping The old materials of the hot pot are traditional hand-made old soy sauce and Shanghai rice wine. You said that the profit of a bowl of 25 yuan is small, and it depends on the number of guests every day, otherwise who can stick to it? "The fried eel is too dry. No matter how it is burned, it is not tender, and it is not fried enough. It is not the same as the size of the master, and the eel in our store is the first place in Huangpu District! ”Master Xu described himself as a pure and unprecedented world. Hesitate.

The stewed noodles in the Dexingguan town shop have an unshakable position. On average, one bowl out of every two bowls is stewed. Since Master Xu retired two years ago, Master Liu Jian, the fourth-generation heir, has borne the burden of braising the hoof. "Braised 300 pounds of hoofed buns every day, the meat joint factory will come at 5 o'clock in the morning. The goods in Dexing Pavilion will be selected, each with a front hoof of 2 to 2.5 pounds. , Check them one by one, and do n’t fake them by hand. All unqualified ones will be returned. After a long time, if you touch your hand, you will know whether it is enough. If you glance at it, you will know if the bones are misaligned. " You have to choose your skin color. “Pigs are as white and black as humans. Braised skin that is too white is too light. The color of too dark sauce is heavy. Do not look at the topping of braised hoof noodles. Millimeters of meat skin, different colors, the old customers immediately knew that with the bowl in a row, the old store of Dexing Noodle House has the largest face, and it is no worse. "

Every year, Shanghainese pay attention to putting a big brace on the table. Every family likes to come to the old shop on Guangdong Road. The red braised hoof is smooth and smooth, fat and tender. The entrance of the elderly and children melts, the most popular . "Our braised hoofs, in fact, have no secret recipe." Master Liu took the Anhui people's shy smile, "Just according to the old side, one step is not changed, one step is unconscious." The back kitchen braided hoof used two old iron pans , Covered with a bamboo drawer nearly one meter high, "This pair of iron pots and bamboo drawers are the same as the old soup, and the taste will change. The interface between the bamboo drawers and the pot is tightly wrapped with a circle of noodles according to the ancient method. Close, place the bottom of the pot on the back, then layer the hoof on the front and back layers, add the old soup, secret ingredients and other seasonings, and simmer for 4 hours. "Stew is different from braised and does not lift the lid during the whole process. , No water, no juice, meat is crispy and greasy. The braised hoofed panties are removed from the soup. Master Liu will take off the bones one by one and pull them out one by one. The 3 pieces of patella bone will come out and the skin will not be damaged. Then put it in the freezer and let it stand for 8 hours. Receiving, there is a style to sell for sale, there is no trace of moisture.

The essence of Shanghai people eating noodles is not only reflected in the toppings, but also the soup. In the open kitchen, under the two big mouths, the pot with hanging soup is at the forefront. Old Man Xu ’s thin body stood at the side of the pot. With a thin layer of red soup, it is a century-old braised hoof soup with genuine prices. Only two barrels a day, every diner can have a kiss. The old soup has thick lips and is fresh and mellow after being polished by time. Although it shows a soy sauce color, it is clear and layered, with a slightly sweet and pleasant meat aroma, which is to make diners meet every day without getting bored. secret.

Before putting the noodles in, add a spoonful of broth to dilute it. This is also a craft. Too light taste, too little and too salty, must be operated by the chef to be just right. The soup in the Dexing Pavilion cannot be learned by others, and the sharp use of materials is the key. Only his family can get a large amount of hanging soup of patella and eel bones, and the soup is full. Old man Xu said triumphantly, in order to have a fresh taste, two spoons of fresh eel blood are needed for the soup to have a soul.

The master cooks the noodles with a large wok that is two or three feet wide. The noodles are put into a large pot. The noodles are neat and orderly, like a bamboo raft shuttle water. At the bottom of the bowl, the upper layer is raised as if the back of the crucian carp is white and tender, sprinkled with green onions, without a trace of flour mixed in, with braised hoof fat and glutinous glutinous meat, distinct lean meat, plus a spoon of soup on both sides, and the belly is eaten. Come home and smile.

Today, Shanghainese can still get up, wash in a hurry, hurried to the head of the Dexing Pavilion, and shouted to the inner kitchen: "Stewed two fresh fish, wide soup, green, re-pouring to cross the bridge, hard point!" A dazzling bowl of noodles tells a hundred years of memory along the Huangpu River.

Takeaway guide for Dexing Hall

Whether it is Shanghainese or not, the take-out window of Dexing Pavilion will never let you go empty-handed for 12 months a year. There are always some special pastries and side dishes that can be taken back to enjoy with your family.

Kimchi

In the minds of Shanghainese, I'm afraid there is no pickle that can compare with the Kaiyang pickles at Dexing Noodle Restaurant. Kaiyang is dried shrimps. Dexing Hall stews pickles and Kaiyang with chicken soup, soy sauce and sugar for 3 hours. The pickles have both seafood and meat flavors.

Fried Hot Sauce

Is the predecessor of the local dish Babao Hot Sauce. Dexing Pavilion's stir-fried chili sauce uses ancient pharaoh soy sauce. The mellow color and taste can be seen at a glance. The tofu, potatoes and diced meat are coarsely diced and fried one by one.

Smoked fish

No matter how many pieces of smoked fish you buy, each is a fat fish body. The black fish skin is complete and dry, the fish body is wet and dry, chewy, delicious and sweet and salty, the texture is clear, and the sauce is mixed with it.

Babao rice

The eight treasures of Dexing Pavilion are characterized by firmness and cost-effectiveness. The glutinous rice must be rotten. If you go home and steam it, it will not be rotten. The texture of the lotus seeds is soft and rotten. The red dates are peeled.